July 2024 - a Castel story by Ivana Capraro
Liquid Stone Granit 2021 - Hartmann Donà
Every month we present a wine from our cellar that our sommelier Ivana Capraro recommends for that month.
July 2024
My goal was, and still is, to produce wines full of character.
A few days ago, I attended a seminar entitled "Fascination Vernatsch", a real Vernatsch lesson organised by Hartmann Donà. A journey between past and present, between anecdotes and true stories about a grape variety that is so loved, but also so much criticised and little appreciated.
Many guests tell me that they were often in South Tyrol in their childhood and youth and have now rediscovered this beautiful land for themselves. Some of them used to visit Lake Kaltern, but they all tell me that their parents drank "Kalterer See". This was long regarded as a substitute name for Vernatsch, but was also synonymous with a cheap wine.
In 1970, 68% of South Tyrol's vineyards were planted with Vernatsch, but today this figure is only around 9%. Today - and this is a positive development - many (young) winegrowers are returning to their roots and thus to Vernatsch as a South Tyrolean grape variety.
And the advantages of this wine fit in with the times, because Vernatsch is light, fruity and low in alcohol. With the new focus on quality rather than quantity, great wines are being produced from this simple grape variety that have nothing in common with the "fusel" of the past. This is also the case with Hartmann Donà.
Before he started producing wines himself in 2000, he worked for 8 years as an oenologist at the Terlan winery. Hartmann himself only has a small vineyard near Girlan, which he inherited from his father. The remaining grapes come from winegrower friends and leased areas. Everything is created by hand and refined in the cellar with a great deal of passion, and today he produces between 35,000 and 40,000 bottles.
The wine
Liquid Stone Granite 2021
"The Vernatsch as an ambassador of the stone."
In 2018, Hartmann Donà began a project that had been planned and prepared for a long time. "Liquid Stone" could also mean something technical, but the opposite is the case. The wines - there are three different ones - are intended to reflect the respective soils on which they were grown: granitic (the granite), porphyritic (the volcanite) and quartz (the phyllite).
As a perfectionist, Hartmann has invested a lot of time in finding the right plots in each case. The one where the granite grows is located 500 metres above Lana in the direction of Ultental. The vines there are 40-50 years old with very deep roots in the granite. They have few, small grapes, which are rich in flavour.
The result is a wine that is lively but austere, with great depth of flavour and aroma. And that's what makes it so special: because of the small area, there are only a very limited number of bottles.
Grape variety:
100% Vernatsch
Colour:
Ruby red colour with violet reflections
On the nose:
Aromas of wild berries and cherries
Palate:
Round and structured, with present and well-integrated tannins and a lingering finish. Cherry, wild berries and minerality
Pairing:
Now in summer, a slightly chilled Vernatsch is great fun. It can be paired with practically all summer dishes.
Salute!
Would you like to try it?
Enjoy Castel wines at home
You can enjoy this great Vernatsch, its two "siblings" and other wines from Hartmann Donà at the Castel and take some of them home with you from our hotel's own wine shop at attractive prices. Alternatively, we will be happy to send you your favourite wines directly.
Cheers!
© Image sources: Winery Hartmann Donà, Michael Königshofer