July 2026 – a Castel story by Ivana Capraro
Cellar Reserve Gschleier Old Vines Vernatsch 2015 – Girlan Winery
Every month, we showcase a wine from our cellar, recommended by our sommelière, Ivana Capraro, for that particular month.
July 2026
When Vernatsch ceased to be an ordinary wine.
The history of the Girlan Winery makes this wine all the more fascinating. It was founded in 1923 by 24 winegrowers who, between them, cultivated just twenty-five hectares of vineyards.
The co-operative was established in a historic 16th-century farmhouse. Today, it brings together around 200 winegrowing families who tend some of the finest vineyards in the Überetsch and Unterland regions, whilst preserving the cooperative spirit that has made Girlan one of South Tyrol’s most prestigious wineries.
The wine
Cellar Reserve Gschleier Old Vines Vernatsch 2015
“Time in the glass.”
There are wines that you simply drink. And then there are wines that preserve memories. The Vernatsch Gschleier clearly belongs to the second category.
To understand it, you have to go back a few decades – to a time when Vernatsch shaped the wine landscape of South Tyrol. It was the wine of families, inns and communal grape harvests: light, uncomplicated and for everyday enjoyment. However, its great commercial success turned it into a mass-market wine, meaning that its identity and reputation were all too often lost. Yet, as with all great grape varieties, its true soul never disappeared – it was simply waiting for someone who was prepared to listen to it.
For the Vernatsch Gschleier has never sought to imitate Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo or Burgundy.
The Vernatsch itself also tells a centuries-old story: it has been one of South Tyrol’s most important grape varieties for centuries, is mentioned in medieval documents and formed the heart of the region’s viticulture for much of the 20th century. The vineyards have shrunk over the years, with many plots replaced by international varieties – yet it is precisely this rarity that has restored the special value to the finest expressions of the variety.
The 2015 vintage was a very special anniversary vintage for this wine. To mark the occasion, the winery used a historic, particularly light, pale green bottle, inspired by the original packaging of the 1975 vintage.
The vines from which these grapes are harvested are between 80 and 110 years old; their exceptionally deep roots lend the wine a complexity that young vines can never achieve. ‘Gschleier’ is undoubtedly one of South Tyrol’s most renowned vineyard sites: The vineyards lie at 450 metres above sea level on soils rich in limestone, clay and gravel, resting on a bed of porphyry. The location and aspect guarantee optimal sun exposure and produce a powerful wine with exceptional ageing potential.
The grapes are harvested by hand into small containers. After destemming, the must flows exclusively by gravity into stainless-steel tanks, where alcoholic fermentation lasts 15 to 20 days.
Following fermentation, malolactic fermentation takes place in large wooden casks: during this process, the sharp malic acid is converted into the milder lactic acid, which lends the Vernatsch particular smoothness and elegance. The wine is then aged for twelve months in large oak casks – the large casks allow for slow micro-oxidation, making the wine soft and harmonious without the pronounced woody or vanilla aromas found in small barriques – followed by a further six months in the bottle before it is released for sale.
“The Gschleier is a wine you wait for, collect and open at just the right moment.” – Ivana Capraro
Grape variety:
100% Vernatsch
Colour:
Light, clear ruby red
On the nose and palate:
Fresh fruit that develops into aromas of dried rose, preserved cherries, mountain herbs, delicate spices and forest floor. The structure remains elegant and refined, yet gains a surprising depth.
Food pairing:
A South Tyrolean classic: Schlutzkrapfen with alpine cheese and brown butter.
Recommendation:
As with any Vernatsch, Gschleier should be enjoyed fresh – that is, served at a cool temperature, but not cold! It’s a real treat, especially in summer.
Salute!
Fancy giving it a go?
Enjoy Castel wines at home
If you’d like to discover the full expressive power of the Cellar Reserve Gschleier Vernatsch Alte Reben 2015 from the Girlan Winery, you’ll find it on our wine list. You’ll also find other wines from the Girlan Winery in our wine shop.
As a rule, I only select wines that authentically reflect their origin and terroir. You’re welcome to take many of our wines home at wine shop prices – I look forward to your visit.
Yours, Ivana Capraro
© Image sources: Kellerei Girlan, Alex Filz
